Why Small Wineries and Commitment to Indigenous Varietals and Ancient Techniques Matter.
On our recent trip to Greece, one of the standout experiences was visiting Ousyra Winery on the Cycladic island of Syros. When we arrived in early October, the season was winding down, the grapes had been harvested, and the new vintages were resting in tanks. Winery owner Edward Maitland-Makgill-Crichton was understandably exhausted after harvest, but he graciously sat down with me to share his wines and tell me more about his work.
Ousyra is a family-run winery with a passion for Greece’s indigenous grape varieties. The winery produced approximately 30,000 bottles last year, with vines on Syros and other parts of Greece, including Paros and the mainland outside Athens. It’s a relatively small operation, but one with a big commitment to preserving Greece’s unique winemaking heritage.
Winemaking Against the Odds
Like winegrowers around the world, Greek producers face their share of challenges. Greece has experienced years of drought, and while a little stress can encourage grapevines to produce concentrated fruit, prolonged water stress can threaten vine health and grape quality.
Despite these challenges, Edward is dedicated to cultivating rare indigenous varieties on Syros, including ungrafted vines, using organic and biodynamic farming techniques. Ousyra also works with grapes and juice from outside sources, applying its own quality standards to the fruit it brings in.
For me, this is one of the most fascinating aspects of wine: the people willing to put in the work to preserve something distinctive, even when it would be easier to plant more familiar grapes or follow more conventional paths.
Fokiano: A Rosé Worth Remembering
Two grape varieties that Ousyra is known for are Serifiotiko and Fokiano. Neither was familiar to me before my visit, which isn’t surprising given how rarely these indigenous Greek grapes appear outside their home country.
Fokiano is a red grape variety with the versatility to produce different styles of wine, including rosé and red, as well as still and sparkling wines. Depending on how it is made, it can also be used for sweet wines.
Ousyra’s Fokiano rosé was a particular highlight. Fruit-forward, medium-bodied, and beautifully balanced, it made an impression that stayed with me long after the tasting. They farm these grapes exclusively on the nearby island of Paros.
This is not your delicate, pale Provençal rosé. It has a little more weight and presence on the palate, making it well suited to food with more intensity and flavor. I can imagine it alongside roasted pork, lighter lamb dishes, or grilled vegetables. And honestly? I could happily enjoy a glass on its own on a cool fall evening.
Naturally, I brought two bottles home. With limited production, finding this wine back in North Carolina may prove difficult, and I wasn’t about to pass up the opportunity.
Serifiotiko: A Taste of the Aegean
The other variety that caught my attention was Serifiotiko, another rare indigenous grape that Ousyra is committed to bringing back. They currently have about 6000 vines on Syros, which produces about 1500 bottles annually. Through cultivating vines, replanting and with help from a nursery, Edward is slowly increasing the production of this almost-lost varietal.
The resulting white wine offers a distinctive combination of citrus notes and salty minerality. That briny, almost sea-spray quality felt especially fitting for an island surrounded by the Aegean Sea.
One of the real privileges of visiting a winery is getting to experience wine at different stages of its life. We had the opportunity to taste the current vintage straight from the tank and compare it with the finished wine. Tasting the two side by side offered a glimpse into the winemaking process and how a wine develops along the way.
It’s the kind of experience that reminds you wine isn’t simply something that appears on a store shelf. Every bottle represents a place, a growing season, a grape variety, and the decisions made by the people who bring it to life.
Why Small Producers Matter
As a wine drinker, wine lover, and eternal student of the vine, I believe winemakers like Edward Maitland-Makgill-Crichton are at the heart of what makes the wine world so exciting.
Their work goes beyond producing a bottle of wine. It helps preserve rare grape varieties, maintain traditional vineyard practices, and protect the diversity that makes wine such an endlessly fascinating subject. In an industry facing environmental and economic pressures, that dedication matters. Learn more about Ousyra at www.ouysrawinery.com.
So here’s my challenge to you: The next time you buy a bottle of wine, venture beyond the familiar.
- Look for a small, independent producer.
- Try a grape variety you’ve never tasted before.
- Ask your local wine shop for something unusual.
- Choose a bottle with a story, rather than automatically reaching for the label you recognize.
You don’t have to spend a fortune to discover something wonderful, and you don’t need to know everything about wine to enjoy exploring it. Sometimes the most memorable bottle is the one you’ve never heard of.
One of the best places to start is an independently owned wine shop. These shops can introduce you to small producers, lesser-known regions, and grapes you might never discover on your own. You can find independent wine shops on the map at TriangleGrapevine.com.
Because wine is about more than what’s in the glass. It’s about the people, the places, and the stories behind every bottle.
Cheers!